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Saturday, December 31, 2011
Sunday, December 25, 2011
RAW FOOD RECIPES - SPROUT SALAD W/ AVOCADO LEMON DRESSING
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Monday, December 19, 2011
Benefits of Martial Arts Training For Kids
Admit it. When the going gets tough at home, we've all plopped the kids in front of the television and breathed a sigh of relief. Finally, we can get started on dinner, maybe check email or sort that massive pile of laundry.
But when your five-year old yells at you "Mom, Kids Rule!" or your ten-year old horrifies you with language that would make a sailor blush, you realize there must be something amiss with what these "family programs" really teach our kids. And sadly, its happening all over the media today, from sports to cartoons, and our children are learning things that we, as parents, vowed we would never teach them. Old fashioned values like respect and self-discipline, seems to have been forgotten, replaced by the dreaded "bling bling" pop culture of today.
Just the thought of your angelic three-year old morphing into a designer-clad, smart-mouthed, money-worshipping, me-obsessed, lay-about is enough to make any parent consider that threatening military school brochure, but there is a solution out there to consider.
Martial Arts training.
From Ninja Turtles to The Karate Kid
You and your kids have all seen the flying kicks, battle cries and mighty chops of their favorite TV characters, as they beat the bad guys to submission - but, you may ask, how on earth can these acts of violence teach my child anything worthwhile?
First, know that what you see on television (save perhaps the Karate Kid) is a far cry from what real martial arts are all about. The fact is, martial arts training is based on non-violence.
Originating in Asia (mainly Japan, China and Korea, although Thailand and Vietnam have their own practices as well), martial arts range from a variety of types and styles, all of which are based on well-rounded, moral teachings. The beauty of learning martial arts is that it encompasses not just the physical aspect of the "sport", but mental and emotional lessons as well.
Comparing that to other kid's activities and sports, where fierce competitiveness and "winning at all costs" seems to be the order of the day, it's not surprising that many children grapple with issues of self-esteem and misplaced aggression.
Now imagine your child actually learning valuable life lessons, skills that he will take throughout life, laying the foundation for a happy, well-adjusted and fulfilled adult life. If only karate for kids was popular in the 70's, when I was growing up!
The Advantages
o Karate, and other martial arts for kids, builds confidence and self-esteem as well as self-discipline, respect, concentration and courtesy.
o Many martial arts schools also offer leadership courses for kids, in conjunction with their karate for kids programs, or similar lessons.
o Martial Arts is ideal for children who do not do well in team sports, giving them the ability to flourish this activity, while combining physical and mental practices.
o Many do not realize this, but it is a fact that martial arts training are safer than most school sports.
o Children with special needs, such as ADD (Attention Deficit Disorder), learning difficulties and hyperactivity are often recommended to participate in martial arts for kids because of the clear benefits in its structured training techniques.
Kung-Fu Master or Ninja Warrior?
Before you sign up Junior for the first martial arts class you see, take some time to check out the different methods available, and match it with what you know would suit your child best. This is a good way to avoid any problems that may sprout from a conflict of your child's personality and the training techniques.
Is your little Zach a sensitive soul? Then maybe a class that doesn't center on sparring (full-on kicks and punches training) but rather, slower, defensive maneuvers would fare better for him. Kids with an aggressive streak, however, may prefer the more forceful moves and thrive in competitive sparring.
Here's a quick primer on the kid-friendly martial arts training you're likely to find:
Martial Arts From Japan
Karate
o Uses defensive and aggressive moves
o Centers on building strength and endurance
o Involves chops, punches, kicks, strikes, blocking and sparring
o May use weapons
Jujitsu
o Uses defensive and aggressive moves
o Involves lots of sparring
o Teaches a fair amount of weapons training
Aikido
o Uses a more "spiritual" and harmonious style in redirecting the aggression of the attacker as the form of defense, using throws, pins, rolls etc.
o Taught on the premise of disabling an aggressor without attacking, through your individual inner energy
o Does not involve sparring or competitions
Judo
o Uses gentle, "wrestling-like" movements
o Considered one of the safest methods of martial arts
o Emphasizes physical control as well as mental development
o Engages in competitions
Martial Arts From China
Kung-Fu
o The generic term referring to Chinese martial arts with a variety of styles
o Involves attack movements as well as defensive techniques
o Teaches kicks, punches, chops, throws, falls, grappling, katas, leg sweeps and blows among others.
o Engages in sparring competitions
Martial Arts From Korea
Taekwondo
o Competitive in nature, involves techniques using elaborate footwork and unique high kicks.
o Emphasizes strength, force and attack methods.
o Engages in lots of sparring and competitions.
Choosing The Right Instruction
If you have an idea of the type of martial arts class you'd like your child to participate in, the next step would be to find the right school. Finding the right class that not only matches your child's and your needs, in terms of teachers you feel comfortable with, the price, facilities and so on, are all important factors.
Say you've found a local place that specializes in Karate for Kids. What are the things you should look for?
1. Good Instructors
Check out their qualifications, teaching methods and watch carefully how they interact with the other children. It should be a fun learning experience!
2. Space and Safety
Obviously you would want to entrust your child in as establishment that is safe, well-maintained, and clean with ample space as well as decent facilities and equipment.
3. School Values
Different martial arts schools inevitably go by different values, for instance, one kid's karate class may handle aggression in one way, while a judo class would have a different approach. Take some time to observe which school's ideals match your family's principles.
4. Prices and Schedules
Prices for martial arts training can vary according to school and location, so make sure you the instruction you choose represents fair value. Finding the most effective way to fit martial arts training into your family's lifestyle is also essential, knowing what works best with your schedule and other activities.
Baby Blackbelts
Starting your child young in karate training is ideal (children as young as the age of four are usually accepted, as it is also a good way to hone fine motor skills), and lots of parents have found that in as little as a year, their children who were involved in martial arts had noticeably gained positive traits such as increased self-esteem, respect and overall physical fitness.
Many parents also opt to join a martial arts training program themselves, making it a great bonding experience for the entire family.
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Thursday, December 15, 2011
Calliou's Rock and Roll Band - 3 Year Old Ian on Drums!
The Imaginary Pocketwatch playing Caillou's Rock and Roll Band in the backyard with Ian (3 year old boy) on drums! www.theimaginarypocketwatch.com
Saturday, December 10, 2011
Dried Garbanzo Beans- Organic- 35 Lbs- Dry Garbonzo Bean / Seeds- For Planting, Sprouting Seed, Gardening, Hummus, Cooking, Food Storage, Sprouts
!±8±Dried Garbanzo Beans- Organic- 35 Lbs- Dry Garbonzo Bean / Seeds- For Planting, Sprouting Seed, Gardening, Hummus, Cooking, Food Storage, Sprouts
Brand : Handy PantryRate :
Price : $69.95
Post Date : Dec 10, 2011 17:46:23
Usually ships in 1-2 business days
Dry Certified Organic Garbanzo beans for use in cooking, roasting, sprouting, planting in a garden, food storage, & more.Garbonzo Sprouts have a nutty flavor suitable for marinating or as additions to salads or loaves. Three-fourths of a cup of chick peas makes about one quart of sprouts. They will be ready to harvest and eat in 3 to 5 days. Delicious choice for Sprouting. Filling, Healthy & Delicious.
Wednesday, December 7, 2011
Growing Chives in Your Garden and Using a Chive Plant - Discoveries in Dirt by a Novice Gardener
There are plenty of gardeners well versed in growing chives in a garden and know a seminar's worth of ways for using the chives plant. I must confess, however, chives came into my life through a happy accident some years ago. As a gardener, herbs were astonishingly absent from my style of cooking, but chives changed all that. My experience drew me to reintroduce you to chives by unearthing some of the pleasant and somewhat surprising useful discoveries about growing and using chives my happy accident taught me as a novice gardener.
Most of us, including me, think of chives as these dried up little green pieces that look like they were taken from our lawn and maybe have a tiny residue of taste surviving in them. Probably our most frequent initial introduction to chives in cooking is as a condiment for a baked potato...as in sour cream with chives. The fascinating features of chives as a plant and herb have been much maligned due to its past classification as a common household herb. This is what I found out as a novice gardener when I somehow mistakenly ordered 9 chives plants, but intended to get only 1.
Chives - The Plant
While chives are part of the onion family, their flavor is much milder and more subtle. Until you've tasted fresh chives you won't believe the difference in taste from those dried up herbs you buy at the store! Chives grow in clumps, which is why they're always referred to as plural. The upright green shoots that grow from the clumps are really called the leaves of the plant.
Growing chives isn't hard. I'm prime proof of that. In fact, I classify them along side daylilies for ease of growing, because they're as indestructible no matter the amount of rain or scorching heat. I hadn't a clue how to plant my chives plants when they arrived, and they've survived in the clay soil of hot Kentucky summers for almost a decade now. You can even dig up their roots (actually little onion-like bulbs), divide them, and replant them just like daylilies! Chives are best planted in a healthy mixture of soil, peat, sand and compost, but my ignorance proves chives plants do well as long as they have plenty of sun and some water now and then.
By the way, chives plants are also perennial. That means, the plant dies back through the winter and sprouts new leaves in the spring. Perennials make a gardener's life easier simply because they DO automatically emerge every year without my help. In the spring, the chives plant produces a bounty of beautiful purple flowers that sprout on tall stems. Who knew growing chives produced beautiful flowers, too? The flowers, similar in shape to the flowers in clover but bigger, can be used in dried ornamental bouquets. The bees happen to love those flowers. Just by growing my chives, there's this added benefit of attracting bees for pollinating some of my other garden plantings.
Another side benefit for my outdoor garden is the chives plants actually protect my other plants and flowers from unwanted insects--like Japanese beetles. Apparently insects find the growing chives to be repulsive. Use the juice of the leaves in the same way.
The Culinary Side of Chives
Chives are chock full of vitamin A and C, calcium and iron. A great choice to flavor foods, cut chives are fat free and combine well with more than sour cream and cream cheese. I found them a winning alternative to the standby salt seasoning. Harvesting chives is a simple task. Simply snip some of those leaves (the soft green shoots) down to the base. The chives plant will continuously regrow the leaves during its growing season.
Chop the leaves into smaller pieces and use them fresh. Store what you don't use in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for about a week. Postpone washing the chives plant leaves until you use them because the extra moisture makes them wilt and decay more rapidly.
Add them for flavoring to soups, sandwiches, fish, vegetable dishes, sauces, and salads. The vast variety of its culinary uses can ignite those creative juices in your cooking. For instance, I have a friend whose family loves to enjoy 'chives sandwiches' every spring. Avoid the mistake of growing chives as a garden herb simply for a garnish...it's so much more versatile.
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Friday, December 2, 2011
Organic Barley Grass Growing Kit w/ Hurricane Barleygrass Juicer- Grow & Juice Barleygrass in Your Own Kitchen for Pennies a Day
!±8± Organic Barley Grass Growing Kit w/ Hurricane Barleygrass Juicer- Grow & Juice Barleygrass in Your Own Kitchen for Pennies a Day
Rate :
| Price : | Post Date : Dec 02, 2011 08:28:28Usually ships in 1-2 business days
The Organic Barley Grass Growing Kit is the complete organic and simple set up! Each kit starts you out with enough organic barley seed, organic soil, organic minerals, and growing trays to grow five trays of Barley Grass- yielding at least 60 ounces of barley juice (1 month supply at 2 ounces a day). Each Barley Grass kit comes with simple easy to follow growing and harvesting instructions, The growing instructions teach you to grow barley grass in the most nutritious and simple way possible! To insure the highest possible mineral content and barley grass yield, we have included an organic forest compost mixture and Azomite, an organic all natural mineral that insures that your barley grass contains all of the trace minerals required by the human body for maximum health. Each Kit Includes: 5 21''x10'' Growing Trays These durable black growing trays can be reused over and over again. Drain holes and easy portable size make these trays perfect for growing grass even in your own kitchen. Each tray of barley grass will yield 12 to 14 ounces of juice. 5 Measured bags (5 lbs) Certified Organic Barley Grass Seed 2 8-Quart Bags of Organic Soil Mix Forest Based Compost, Completely Animal Free! Enough soil to grow 5-6 flats of wheatgrass, barley grass or sunflower greens. This mixture is created using organic compost, and peat moss. This mix will allow you to increase your growing yield as well as increase the nutrition of your grass. Compost your spent soil flat and use it over and over. Supply of Azomite Azomite has 67 major and trace elements, so its name means "A to Z Of Minerals Including Trace Elements." Typical analysis shows every element that's beneficial to plants and animals, and other elements (micro-nutrients) scientists believe essential. Barley Grass Growing and Juicing Instructions Free growing technical support.
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Deluxe Sprouting Starter Kit w/ 12 Lbs. Of Organic Seed - Everything To Grow Sprouts: 3 Tray Sprout Garden, Seeds: Alfalfa, Radish, Clover, Mung Bean, Garbonzo Beans, Green Pea, Crunchy Lentil Fest & More
!±8± Deluxe Sprouting Starter Kit w/ 12 Lbs. Of Organic Seed - Everything To Grow Sprouts: 3 Tray Sprout Garden, Seeds: Alfalfa, Radish, Clover, Mung Bean, Garbonzo Beans, Green Pea, Crunchy Lentil Fest & More
Brand : Handy Pantry | Rate : | Price : $89.95
Post Date : Nov 29, 2011 07:32:28 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
| Price : $89.95Post Date : Nov 29, 2011 07:32:28 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
This deluxe sprouting kit provides space saving "LIFETIME GUARANTEED"stackable tray system and a single sprouting lid for soaking the seeds and for making small amounts. ONE "SPROUTING FOR HEALTH IN THE NEW MILLENNIUM" Instruction booklet. Everything you need to learn the basic aspects of sprouting virtually every kind of organic seed, bean or grain is here for you in this deluxe starter pack!Includes a whopping 12 Pounds of our most Popular Sprout Seed! One pound of the following: Bean Salad Mix-Bean (Adzuki, Lentil, Mung), Radish, Cruncy Lentil Fest (Green, Red & French Lentils), Clover, Green Peas, Green Lentils, 3 Part Salad Mix (Alfalfa, Radish, Broccoli), Protein Powerhouse (Garbonzo,Snow Pea), Cabbage, Radish, 5 Part Salad Mix (Alfalfa, Radish, Brocolli, Mung & Lentil), Alfalfa, Garbonzo, Mung Beans.Sprouts are high in protein, essential amino acids, and eight digestive enzymes; vitamins A, C, B comples (including B-12), D, E and K; minerals iron, phosphorous, calcium, magnesium and potassium; and - when exposed to light - very high in chlorophyll.
- Everything Needed To Learn & Start Sprouting
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- Stackable Sprouting System
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Saturday, November 26, 2011
How To Grow A TickleMe Plant
www.ticklemeplant.com Tickle this plant and it moves. AMAZING and FUN - TickleMe Plant™ quickly closes its leaves; even its branches will move down when tickled. TickleMe Plants also appear to sleep at night by closing up their leaves. A fascinating experience that any child would benefit from. It promotes an excitement about gardening and a sensitivity towards plants! Never to be forgotten! The seeds can sprout in a matter of days and within a month will move when tickled! Adult TickleMe Plants can produce pink flowers. Makes a great year round houseplant. Grows indoors any time of the year. YES, even in WINTER!
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Wednesday, November 23, 2011
Organic Sunflower Sprouting Seeds (Un-Shelled)- 18 Lbs- Edible Seed, Gardening, Hydroponics, Growing Salad Greens, Sprouts & Food Storage - Sun Flower
!±8± Organic Sunflower Sprouting Seeds (Un-Shelled)- 18 Lbs- Edible Seed, Gardening, Hydroponics, Growing Salad Greens, Sprouts & Food Storage - Sun Flower
Brand : Handy Pantry | Rate : | Price : $79.95
Post Date : Nov 23, 2011 09:32:08 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
| Price : $79.95Post Date : Nov 23, 2011 09:32:08 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
3 Lb. Nitrogen Packed Can of Certified Organic Unshelled Sunflower sprouting seed. Prime-quality, high germination, specially selected, microbial tested. Fresh, crunchy sprouts in 3 to 5 days! Nutritional info: Vitamins A, B, C and E Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Niacin, Phosphorus, Potassium Protein: 25%. Instructions for Sprouting: Sunflower Lettuce may be grown by placing the soaked drained seed close together (single layer only) on the top of 1 inch of rich, damp, organic soil. A pie plate works well as a container. Cover with 8 layers of wet, black and white newspaper and place in a black plastic bag for 3 days. Remove the bag and paper and place in dim light for 2 days. For the balance of the time move to a window or a place with very good lighting. Sprinkle lightly or mist with water once per day. DO NOT saturate. Harvest in 7 to 10 days when the hulls fall off, the leaves open and they have a lush, green appearance. Cut off at the roots, rinse and refrigerate in an airtight container. Sunflower Lettuce is a favorite mainstay for all salads.
- 18 Lb Nitrogen Packed Bucket of Unshelled Sunflower Sprouting Seeds
- Certified Organic Sprouting Seeds
- High Germination Rate
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Sunday, November 20, 2011
Wax Beauty Care - No Longer A Fad
One of the growing trends in beauty care in past years has been that of hair removal. It seems as if hair is undeniably out and everyone wants a smooth, hairless body. In fact, the human body is almost completely covered with hair, with the exception of the palms of the hands and soles of the feet. This makes for a worthwhile business for those who are licensed for hair removal. Although there is more than one hair removal method to choose from, wax beauty care has long been one of the most common methods of removing hair. And women are not the only ones buying into this American beauty skin care removal trend. Men are also among frequent clients, getting their backs, chests and other areas hair-free with hair waxing.
Waxing has long been a favorite procedure of those seeking to be smooth. Waxing requires hot wax to be poured on the area and then withdrawn by having strips stuck on and pulled off along with unwanted hair. Although this method is often painful, it is cost effective and can last a while, which keeps many patrons coming back for more American beauty skin care. Another selling point for some is that waxing can be performed by professionals in a salon or can be done in your own home with one of many self-waxing kits sold in stores. For people not wanting to spend a lot of money or have the process done in a public salon, home waxing can seem appealing.
There are a number of areas on the human body that people choose for wax beauty care. Women have made waxing very popular for their legs and bikini areas, particularly during summer months. Since waxing keeps areas hair free longer than shaving and often prevents the area from becoming irritated with small red bumps like shaving sometimes does, waxing has grown more and more popular. However, while shaving can be done to smooth areas with even the shortest stubble of hair sprouting up, to wax an area you must wait until a certain length of hair has grown in so the wax has a substantial amount of hair to grip onto and pull out. Another benefit of waxing is that the treatment makes hair grow back finer each time. That means that each time the hair grows back after waxing it will be thinner and easier to remove.
Since bikini waxing has become so common in recent years, there have been a number of different bikini waxes created depending on how much hair a woman wants removed. This allows women to have a number of choices when it comes to bikini waxes. Most of the time, the cosmetician[ working in the salon where you get your bikini wax will be able to help you if you are unsure about what type of wax you are seeking. However, most women have an idea in mind when they schedule their waxing appointment. Standard bikini waxes remove the hair around the bikini line, making more attractive to wear a bathing suit. This is perhaps the most popular bikini wax. However, the waxing does not stop there. A full bikini wax removes all pubic hair except for a strip, while a Brazilian bikini wax takes off all hair in the bikini area. The names of the waxes can vary from salon to salon but these are typically the varieties of waxes offered.
Wax beauty care, particularly bikini waxing, is done in a private part of the salon, so do not worry about others viewing your wax. Your position during a bikini wax is considerably similar to your position during a gynecological exam. If you are desiring a full or Brazilian wax you may find that it is necessary for you to get into different positions for the person doing the waxing to reach all areas of hair. But since salon employees who administer bikini waxes likely do numerous waxes each day, they are used to the process and you should not feel mortified. Results of bikini waxing typically last anywhere from ten to twenty days, then you will likely be ready for another American beauty skin care appointment. And keep in mind that since the hair must be a certain length in order to be removed with waxing, you will have to go at least a few days with a considerable amount of stubble.
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Sunday, November 13, 2011
Grow Your Own Chillies - Everything You Need To Know - Part 2 Of 3
Growing Your Seedlings
OK, you've got your best seeds selected and you're ready to start planting. What comes next?
What To Grow Them In?
I'll state up front that I don't know anything about hydroponics, nor do I know anyone growing chillies using that technique. As a result it will not be covered here.
Now that we've got that out of the way, there are two main points to be covered under this topic and they are; the medium to plant the seeds in and the container to hold the medium.
With regard to the medium I absolutely recommend using a premium potting mix or seed raising mix.
This is because these products are specifically designed with the following features; large particles to avoid compacting of the media which in turn inhibits both root penetration and drainage and, a nutrient profile that promotes vigorous root expansion and foliage growth.
You will inevitably come across people that tell you that the seedling needs to start off in the soil that it will eventually grow. That's absolute rubbish, and if it was true would mean that there is no plant nursery industry as no one would buy anything in pots to take home. The fact is that the nursery industry across Australia turns over several billion dollars a year. Your garden soil is suitable for chillies that are well on the way to growing up, but is normally of a density, or contains diseases, that can inhibit root growth, damage, or even kill your new seedlings.
Now, as to containers, there is an enormous range and what is best for you is going to depend a little bit on how many plants you intend to grow and a whole lot on personal choice. Containers range from the individual Jiffy pots or blocks through the plastic 6 cells to large clay or plastic pots. We'll examine each of these in more detail.
Jiffy pots and blocks are made from compressed sphagnum peat moss and wood pulp and uncompress and swell up once they are immersed in water. The seed can then be pressed into this swollen mass and, if kept moist, will germinate into a perfectly acceptable medium.
A big advantage of these is that when the seedlings are hardy enough to be planted outside, you simply plant the pot into the garden soil. There's no need top remove the seedling from one medium to the other thereby reducing the stress on the young plant. The downside is that at around AUDBody.20 each, if your going to be planting a lot of seeds, the cost will start to add up, and, of course, they are not re-useable.
Now, the plastic six-pack cells are another option. You simply fill them with your seed propagation or potting mix, moisten, and put your seeds in each one using a dibble stick. Alternatively, three-quarter fill them then put a seed on top of each one and then put more mix to fill the cells. Either way is fine. The advantages of these are that they are cheap and re-useable which helps keep your costs down.
On the downside however, because they are small it is likely that you will need to transplant the seedlings into a larger pot before they are ready to go outside. The reason they need to be transferred is that the seedlings will rapidly become root-bound in the small cells and if they do, this affects the later performance and heath of the plant. It also stresses the seedling twice going from cell to pot to garden. If you are able to plant from cell to garden (as you may in the tropics) or if the plant is going to stay in the pot it gets transferred to, then these negative factors are not an issue for you. Congrats.
Now I'll quickly look at pots.
I'm not going to explore cost here as it obviously depends on your personal choice and there is an enormous range available. If you are intending to plant into cheap plastic pots and then transfer to the garden at a suitable age that's a perfectly acceptable process. The only downside here is that if you live in the colder parts of the country, you will not be able to fit many pots on a heating mat as discussed below. However if you are able to keep the pots warm some other way (e.g. heated greenhouse, or keep them inside the house) then this is not an issue for you.
If you plant the seeds directly into the pot that you intend to grow them in that's fine too - the negative issues are only those discussed in the previous two sentences. On the plus side, the seedling does not experience any of the stress of transplanting.
Finally, just for your information I'll quickly go over the basics of what the commercial nurseries do. They use a more involved process where the seeds are germinated in large flat trays with no medium other than some water. After a couple of days, the delicate seedlings are transplanted into the six-pack cells that you are familiar with. This maximizes the usage and saleability of the six-packs as there are no empty cells as a result of seeds not germinating. You've all seen the six-packs at the nursery where one of the seedlings has died and they just do not sell. So for the nursery to be able to avoid non-germination is worth the hassle.
Where Do I Grow Them?
You've got your seeds, raising mix and your pots. So, we now need to discuss where you intend to grow and subsequently acclimatise your seedlings.
I will quickly cover what I do first and then go over a number of possibilities for you to be able to choose the approach that best suits you.
When I do grow from seeds, which is not that often these days, I start off using a simple mini-greenhouse (see picture), with a premium grade potting mix, to germinate the seeds in, making sure it's kept moist. This sits outside during the day where it will get sufficient sunlight and comes in at night to avoid temperatures dropping to detrimental levels.
As the seedlings begin to touch the top of the clear plastic lid (about 5cm high)
I transfer them to larger pots and place the outdoors against a galvanised iron shed, facing north. In this location they get plenty of spring sunlight and warmth, which is also reflected back onto the plants by the shed. Very occasionally Perth will experience a cold night or two during this time in which case I will either move the plants inside for the night or to a sheltered area where the temperature drop will not be as extreme.
Once I am happy that the plants are acclimatised and ready to go out on their own, I transfer then to the raised garden beds up at the back of my yard. The time frame for this varies and is as much about the future likelihood of damaging cold spells as it is about the readiness of the plant. This is usually around 3-6 weeks.
I need to say here that I avoid planting seeds too early (i.e. before October) which negates my need for a glasshouse or coldframe as discussed below. I can do this because Perth has a long, warm Autumn which means I still get a extended harvest season that lasts well into April and frequently even May.
If you live north of Latitude 35 S there is a good chance you can grow your chillies all year round, particularly on near the coast. If you live more than 200km from the coast you will need to be careful of low temperatures during the winter/dry season.
If you live between Latitude 30 S and Latitude 35 S (approximately Perth, Durban, and Santiago) you can adopt my technique above, or start a little earlier and borrow from the advice below, which is for the colder regions.
Should you live south of Latitude 30 S then you will need to read the information below and should look at getting your seeds to germinate in July/August to ensure you get a long enough harvest season to make the effort worthwhile.
OK. First thing to consider is that you will most likely need some form of heating to provide the temperatures your seeds need to germinate. There are several options here that I will discuss.
First option is an electric heat mat which come in both pre-set and adjustable temperature models. You'll pay AUD-60 for the former and about three times that for the adjustable models. In Australia you can get these at good nurseries and garden centres. The Bunnings store (in North America the equivalent would be Walmart) near me does not stock them however, you are also able to buy them online at retailers such as http://www.gardenexpress.com.au (please note that we have no association with gardenexpress.com.au and if you look around there are other websites with the same equipment).
Friends that have these mats thoroughly recommend them. They have asked me to remind you though that once the seeds have germinated the heating mat needs to be placed somewhere that the seedlings will receive sunlight.
Another option is one that is quite popular with keen gardeners and that is the coldframe. The are an endless number of variations on the above example and they all work on the principle of solar heating of the medium in which you are germinating your seeds. Depending on how cold the climate is you may choose to open the up during the day and close them at night to retain the heat, or simply leave them closed most of the time to provide maximum warmth.
If your climate is extremely cold there are further steps you can take to heat the contents of your cold frame. One is to dig below the base of the frame and pack this with moist manure and straw and then cover this with a layer of loam and then place your potting mix/raising mix/cells/pots on top of this. Extra heat will then be provided by the decomposition of the underlying manure and you may be surprised by just how much heat this generates. I recommend you keep a thermometer in the frame to make sure temperatures do not get too much above 35oC. Cooling can be achieved by opening the sashes, of course.
In extremely cold climates you may wish to heat your coldframe electrically with a setup involving heating cables embedded below the base of the coldframe. I do recommend you get a qualified electrician to set this up as the consequences of a faulty DIY job could be fatal (and I'd hate to lose a subscriber!). Once a coldframe is modified in this way it is commonly called a hotbox.
The third and final option I'll cover quickly is for those lucky enough to have a greenhouse. There is not a lot more to say regarding these that has not been covered in the previous three paragraphs. They are solar heated and this can be augmented electrically or by having some compost breaking down either under the floor or simply in a tub in one corner. There are a couple of points to be make sure of with regard to a greenhouse and they are; that the greenhouse is in a position to get sufficient sunlight through the winter months and, that it does not get too hot in the warmer months. Many greenhouses have panels that open to all the latter issue to be addressed.
Lets Grow Them
This is it. Everything is ready now to plant your seeds. The best time to do this is approximately two months before you believe you will able to put your chilli plants outside to fend for themselves, i.e. after they are acclimatised.
Fill up your six-pack cells or pots with your preferred seed raising medium, remembering not to pack the medium down as this will inhibit root growth. If you are using a premium potting mix this will already have sufficient nutrients to support the initial growth of the seedling. However, if you are using any other medium there is a high probability that it does not have the nutrient profile to support your young seedlings.
So you will need to apply a liquid fertilizer, of your choice, diluted for seedlings as the directions on the packet instruct. For those of you in Australia I use Powerfeed (TM) by the group that make Seasol (TM) (I have no association with them whatsoever, though if they want to cut a deal I am open to that).
I use a hand operated spray bottle to apply the fertilizer however some people prefer to soak the filled containers in the liquid for a few minutes. It's up to you really.
Either way the germinating medium may compact a little here because of the liquid and this is not a problem however, if you need to top up the medium in some containers, do so.
Now with the blunt end of a pencil, or something of that size, push a hole into the medium in each cell, approximately ½ cm deep. Drop 2 or 3 seeds into each hole and then push a little of the germinating medium over them to cover. Depending on how many varieties you are planting you may want to label the cells or pots in some way so that you don't need to try and remember which is which. If you keep a garden journal or almanac then you will no doubt be recording a number of data items regarding the planting. It is a good habit to have as the information you pick up over time can be significant for growing chillies in your particular area.
Now ensure that you keep the seeds moist and warm. Moist does not mean soggy, it means moist. Eventually you will see the seeds beginning to sprout. Let them grow for a week, keeping moist and warm and then, with a pair of scissors, cull all but the strongest seedling in each cell by cutting them off at the base. You want to do this to ensure that each generation of your chilli seeds is stronger and hardier than the last.
Ensure that wherever you have the seedlings growing gets sufficient light, heat and ventilation to ensure healthy growth. Fertilise your seedlings as per the directions on the packet/bottle - this is usually once a week.
It is incredibly important that you do not let the seedlings dry out. Seedlings that get stressed by dehydration early in their life seldom fully recover - you will end up with plants that have significantly decreased vigour and disease resistance.
Any electrical heating that you may be using can be turned off after about the third week provided the seedlings will not be exposed to the risk of frost.
After around six weeks your chilli plants should be of good size and looking healthy, and ready for planting.
Acclimatising and Transplanting Your Seedlings
If you have ever had an aquarium you will know that if you purchase new fish from the store and take them home you do not simply tip them from the bag into you tank and assume that everything will be alright. The temperature shock and the pH shock would compound the stress of travel and most likely result in dead fish with in 24 hours.
Your seedlings are the same. They are accustomed to the warm, lightly ventilated, constantly watered nirvana that you have raised them in. Basically they are complete wimps and need to be toughened up before they can be transplanted out into the big bad world.
In more technical terms they have grown rapidly, producing large cells with thin walls due to a lack of stress and environmental demand affecting the plant. They need to become accustomed to day-long exposure to UV light, strong winds, heavy rain, larger temperature variations and sporadic dry conditions.
Many gardeners call this process of toughening, or acclimatising, hardening off.
Acclimatising
This is a process that takes place over two weeks once your seedlings reach an age of about six weeks.
The first step is to slow down the growth of your plant by watering and feeding less, and if possible, keeping the seedlings at a slightly cooler temperature. This will begin the adjustment stage by preserving the plants' energy for adjusting to the new outdoor conditions.
Begin acclimatising your seedlings to the garden by gradually exposing them to outdoor
conditions. First expose them to filtered sun in the shade of a tree or in a sheltered spot protected from the wind and direct sun.Leave them for 3-4 hours and gradually increase the time spent outside by 1-2 hours per day until, bringing them back into shelter at night.
After a week or so, they should be able to withstand a full day of sun. While acclimatising the seedlings, watch them closely for signs of stress (the leaves may start turning yellow and drying out if exposed to too much sun). They should now also be able to stay out at night providing the temperature is not going to drop much below 10oC (50oF).
The science behind the process of acclimatizing your plants is a physiological one that adds carbohydrate reserves to the plant and produces additional cuticle on the leaves, reducing water loss. Practically, the process slows plant growth while acclimating the seedling to harsher conditions.
Transplanting
You're seedlings are now ready to transplant and if you bought your seedlings from a nursery then this is the place for you to begin reading this document.
Before I get into the process of putting your plants in the ground I'd like to go over a couple of points about seedlings purchased from a nursery. The first is that these are frequently root-bound and if so, it will take longer for them to extend their roots into the garden soil, so they too are subject to wilting until they are established. Tease the roots our a little, being careful not to damage them, otherwise they will continue to circle around rather than spread out. Also, give them a little extra attention once they're in the ground
The next point is that most nurseries indicate that their seedlings are acclimatised and ready for immediate transplanting. Instead of gambling and being disappointed (it was your money after all), harden them off yourself for at least a week first.
One more point to consider that, as a general rule of thumb, planting the same type of plant in the same spot year after year is asking for problems. The reason of this is that pests, because like their solanum cousins, tomatoes and eggplants, chillies are prone to root knot nematode. These are microscopic roundworms which attack the roots of the plant and cause it to wilt.
The two best practices for minimising this risk is to practice crop rotation or by adding significant amounts of organic matter to the soil at least annually.
The spacing between your plants depends on a number of factors, including the size of the varieties being grown. Smaller varieties, such as ornamentals, can be planted closer together and the there's usually less sunburn (light brown burnt areas) of the fruit because they're better shaded by the leaves. Some commercial chilli growers space their plants as closely as 10-15cm apart. Close spacing also helps minimize evaporation due to the thick canopy of leaves.
Now, to planting - generously water the plants to be transplanted the day before . This insures that the whole plant will be hydrated, leaves and all, when it's time to transplant, thereby helping it to cope with stress.
Plan to do your transplanting when it is overcast or during the cooler evening hours.
Water the plant immediately before digging or removing from its pot. Soak the root ball so that the soil will adhere to the roots, when it is dug from the garden.
Never leave the roots exposed to sun, heat or wind. This is a risk if you remove all plants from their pots and simply lay them down, planting one after the other. It's much better to remove them from the pots/cells just prior to planting.
Water the hole before you place the transplant into it. Place the transplant into the hole and fill it halfway with water. Allow the water to settle the soil around the roots and then finish filling the hole.
Lightly firm the soil around the transplant and again, water the whole plant, leaves and all. If possible, shield the new transplant from direct sunlight for 1-2 weeks, by cutting the bottom out of an old plastic pot roughly the same height as the seedling and place this over it. This will help the plant get over the shock by cutting down the direct light and also reducing evaporation. An extra plus is that it protects the plant from getting snapped off in strong winds.
Check the plant daily for the first couple of weeks. Transplants will need watering every day, if not more. If it is wilting, water the plant. Depending on the weather and the plant, you may need to water twice a day until it becomes established. The larger the plant and/or the less roots to top growth ratio, the more water will be needed.
All of this may seem extreme, but the shock of being uprooted is stressful to plants anytime of year. In the heat of summer, this extra precaution can make the difference between keeping and losing your transplants.
That's it for this section. The third and final section deals with Problems, Pests and Diseases
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